Last Day in Stabia

Saturday, 7/17/10

Hydrangea

 What a pleasant morning I had! I got through most of my regimen of exercises, then went back to the Terme di Stabia and got more of the s. ferrata for my legs, which now seem totally free of that annoying rash. I will share some with the other women who are having problems with the same rash here on the legs. Someone looked it up, and it is a common affliction in Europe of women who visit from the United States who are over 50 (!! I am NOT!!) There is supposedly nothing you can do about it. Obviously the folks of the internet have not had the benefit of the s. ferrata that I have.

Fountain in Castellammare di Stabia

 I also bought some little gifts for people at the stores around the baths. Between the health benefits of this place and the luxury and fun of the spa at Ischia, I can now definitely see why the Romans loved their baths so much and why they spent so much time there. Even the baths at Stabia are landscaped beautifully. I'll post some pictures. The Terme di Stabia seems to be a hangout for older people and for people with children during the heat of the day. Like the Roman baths, it seems like a social event. Like the Roman baths, the baths at Stabia also attracts shopkeepers. One shop just outside the entrance that mostly sells little breads or rolls seemed to be doing a brisk business today. The shopkeeper seemed to be touting the health benefits of the bread. I wish I understood enough Italian to be sure of what she was telling people.

 I still need to pack. I am actually a little reluctant to leave here, although I am excited about heading to the big city of Rome.

My thanks to the National Endowment for the Humanities for making this portion of our trip possible.

My Sassy, Italian Hair Cut

Friday, 7/16/10

 My boyfriend, Don, misses me. We had a nice talk on the phone last night. He actually had a good belly-laugh when I told him about the lack of water I mentioned in my last post. Not because my situation was funny, but because it reminded him of some earlier life experiences of his own when he was a young man in the U.S. Navy.

 I guess these crises always seem lighter in retrospect. The water was out in the entire city of Castellammare di Stabia, not just in our hotel. When I woke up this morning, the water was flowing again, and all was well in the world. At least for me. The neighbors, Ryan and Alan, still have issues with their bathroom, including an ungodly stench and flies buzzing around in the bathroom all night. The source of the insects is uncertain, but possibly from the pipes. Anyway, my friends are not happy, and the hotel has not been able or perhaps willing to put them in another room. If necessary a couple of women in the group who have single rooms will double up and let Alan and Ryan have a better room. Time will tell.

 The hotel eventually resolved the above by moving Ryan and Alan into a more comfortable room. It took about 24 hours but they did it.

 Alan (Pagan is his last name) gave a presentation this morning about the ancient mystery-cult of the god Mithras. It was the best presentation on mystery-cults and Mithraism I have ever seen in my life. How Alan could have given such a great presentation after the lack of sleep he got last night, I don't know, but he was wonderful.

 Now our group has this afternoon and all of tomorrow off. Considering how swollen my feet and ankles were at the end of the day yesterday, I do not think I will do much. I feel I need some rest more than anything else. After the shops open this afternoon, I may go down what our group calls the Death March Hill, or the D.M. The view of the sea at the top of this hill is magnificent, but the march back to the hotel from town after a day of walking around in the hot Italian sun at Capri or Herculaneum or Naples is a little tough. If I go to town I will look for more batteries for my camera and perhaps a haircut if I can get one.

 Tomorrow I may go to the Terme di Stabia for more aqua s. ferrata. My rash is practically gone and I'd like to bottle up some water to carry to Rome. I also need to pack tomorrow. In the meantime I'll either nap this afternoon or do a little research on wax tablets, or maybe both. My eyes are getting heavy as I type this. It is so nice to have a chance to rest. 

My new haircut

...... I decided to go down the DM into town after all. First on my agenda was a haircut. At the suggestion of one of the hotel employees I went to “Massimo Hair Philosophy” and asked for a cut.  Despite my limited English, Meda—I think that's the hairstylist's name-- did a great job. I will post some pictures of the cut: please remember that this was taken after the march up the hill and not fresh out of the salon, where it looked even better. The cut was a splurge for me price-wise, but I felt pampered and had some fun. The cut seems a little Italian and a little sassy somehow, definitely different from what I would get at home. I'll also look better in August when I have to rush back to work than I would if I had gone two months without a cut. After a little shopping for toiletries and camera batteries in town, I headed back up the DM.

My thanks to the National Endowment for the Humanities for making this portion of our trip possible. I paid for my own hair cut, though. :)

View from the side

Paradise in Ischia

Thursday, 7/15/10

Source: pic2fly.com

Well, we all made it to Ischia and back ok. There is only one ferry from Sorrento in the morning, and only one ferry back to Sorrento in the afternoon, and we didn't miss either. I was loathe to leave, though. After checking out the ruins under Sancta Restituta and the display in a nearby museum, Wendy, Leigh, and I went to a nearby Spa. Its unusual name was Negombo. Unfortunately, I didn't trust my camera around the sand and water, so I do not have personal pictures of its striking beauty. A quick search under Google Images will give you some idea, though. I posted a couple here.

Source: iodesignonlus.it

What luxury. We enjoyed the beach, which was on a scenic little cove with dark, volcanic sand. The resort was beautifully landscaped with lush plants and scented flowers. There was a large salt-water pool along the ocean. A scenic trail wound up the nearby hill, with different thermal pools offering different experiences. At the Japanese pool you walked on large pebbles, first through hot water and then through icy cold. Further up were warm pools that bubble like a natural hot tub; towers of hot water that splashed down on you from above to give you a back massage; showers and pools in caves, etc., etc. We had a grand time and were reluctant to leave to catch the bus back to the port.

My dream relaxation-vacation would be to stay a few days on Ischia hanging out at a resort like that spa we went to, with maybe some day trips into Sorrento to shop. I'd love to go back.

 On the way to Ischia, I had fallen asleep briefly on the ferry. I dreamed St. Restituta was talking to me in Greek. The Greek letters scrolled across my field of vision, and I understood her as I read them. I felt a moment of enlightenment. Unfortunately, when I woke up I couldn't remember what she'd said or what the enlightened feeling was about.

 When we got back to theVesuvian Institute in Stabia, hot and tired and sweaty, there was no cold water on the second floor. The hot water was scalding, so no showers. There's a possibility of no water at all when the hot water tank runs dry. My neighbors are reporting a foul, sewer-like smell in some of the rooms that are getting no water at all. In fact, the stench is wafting into the room as I type. I have been patient with the noise, scarcity of electrical outlets, and spotty wireless reception in this hotel, but lack of water and the stink has taxed my patience to the limit. I am starting to wish our group could pack up and leave for Rome tomorrow.

My thanks to the National Endowment for the Humanities for funding this portion of our trip. 

Taking the Waters

Sunday, 7/11/10

The Fountain at the Terme di Stabia

 

It's hard to believe we've already been here a week. Most of the group decided to travel to the beaches in Sorrrento. Leigh and I walked to the Terme di Stabia, the Baths of Stabia, which turned out to be easy to find, about two or three blocks from where we are staying. The main baths were closed. If we have read the Italian right, the main bath complex offers mud treatments, breathing treatments, various types of soaks and physical therapy.

The complex across the street was open, however, to take the waters. After paying a modest entrance fee, we entered a pleasant little park with shady trees, a moss-grown fountain, and a couple of shops selling spices or trinkets. There was a view of the bay from under the trees and a little museum exhibit and aquarium showcasing local sea-life. The restrooms were clean and well-stocked. 

Cool Shade and Beautiful Gardens at the Terme di Stabia

The highlight was a row of spigots over a trough. The different kinds of mineral waters were labeled with things like “Madonna,” “Stabia,” “Ferrata,” etc. An elderly Italian man explained to us patiently and enthusiastically in Italian that the different waters are good for different things. We mostly understood his pantomime, but we got by. Some of the waters are meant to be drunk, others to smear on the body. His favorite for drinking was the “Madonna,” which tastes much like the bottled mineral water served at the local restaurants. Another man liked a water that he said was good for the stomach, but Leigh tried it and said it tasted awful, sort of salty with a strong sulfur taste, so I skipped that one. 

My favorite was the “S. Ferrata,” a type meant for topical application. Our first guide claimed it is good for the skin. I smeared some on my rash, and it immediately felt soothed, and felt even better as the water evaporated. We had not thought to bring cups or bottles, so we'd had to purchase little cups at the entrance for an extra 10 cents (or the equivalent in Euros). I filled my cup with the “S. Ferrata” and managed to bring some home without spilling it too badly. I have applied more to my rash liberally and frequently. I wish I'd brought a bottle and will definitely bring some to fill if I go back. 

Upon my return I walked into town for lunch and bought a few postage stamps. I was surprised you can buy them on Sunday. I managed to do most of my PT exercises upon return. Now I plan to rest and to finish up my postcards, and maybe even take a little nap. It's well-deserved. 

My thanks to the National Endowment for the Humanities for providing funding for this portion of our trip.