Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Stabia and Boscoreale


Thursday, July 8, 2010

A fresco from the Villa San Marco
   Today we went to the Villa Adriana and the Villa San Marco at Stabiae, then we went to Boscoreale to visit a typical Roman villa rustica, or working country farmhouse, and its nearby museum. The Villa San Marco would have been one of the types of seaside villas in the area where Pliny the Elder died trying to rescue victims of the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D. He was also trying to study the eruption for observation purposes. He reminds me in that respect of an ancient Jacques Cousteau. The restoration work and reproductions there help set the frescoes we saw at the Naples Museum in the context of a house. The garden was large and breathtaking, with a huge piscina (pool or fishpond) and a nymphaeum (decorative fountain) at the back. The plantings in the garden are historically accurate, based on root castings and DNA research done by archaeologists, accurate even down to the size and placement of the plane trees. They really helped give a sense of what the garden looked like as well as provided welcome shade. Plane trees dot the Vesuvian Institute and the surrounding streets as well. Even today they seem to be a popular tree here.
The large piscina or fishpond
 
The state of the garden interested me, because the specialty of studying the plantings in the Roman gardens was still young during my last visit to these kinds of sites in 1988. At the Villa Adriana we actually observed archaeologists at work on the garden there, working on the bare soil to make root castings of both large and small plants. Much of the work is done by undergraduates at the University of Maryland, many of whom come back in their summers year after year to continue this work. The views of the coastline from this villa must have been magnificent. The ocean would have come right up to about where the apartment buildings line the base of the slope where the villa stands, today. After the eruption, the ocean receded so that it is about a kilometer away from where it used to be.
Plaster casts of the garden at the Villa Adriana
A bronze bust at Boscoreale
 
Boscoreale is a fine example of a villa rustica, and very different from the luxury and urban villas we have been visiting up to this point. The term rustica now has a more concrete meaning in my mind. I used to think of it as just villa out in the country, but the minute I stepped into this building I felt I was on a working farm. Its layout upon entry almost reminds me of stepping into a friend's stables. The building has been restored well, too, so that you can see even what the roofs would have looked like. The nearby museum is full of the tools and materials related to the kind of work and recreation what would have gone on here, from fishhooks to a small mill for flour to information on textiles and dyes, etc. There was also a special exhibit with some of the castings of victims of the eruption.
A mill to grind grain into flour at Boscoreale

Helle, a mosaic at the Villa San Marco
 
The highlight of the evening was a plenary session by Roger Macfarlane, a visiting scholar who works on using computer technology to rescue and share the content of ancient scrolls, particularly at the Villa of the Papyri. He showed us a documentary about these efforts called Out of the Ashes. I very much want to see if I can somehow find a copy of this for my students. I took a little video of him of my own, too.
 
Tomorrow our group plans to go through Hell.

(My thanks to the National Endowment for the Humanities for making this portion of my trip possible).

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