Land of the Etruscans

Thursday 7/29/10

Etruscan Tumulus Tomb

It is hard to believe that tomorrow is the official “last day” of the program, although most of the participants will be staying through the weekend. We have formed close bonds and will really miss each other. Today we took a hired coach to Etruria, specifically Cerveteri and Tarquinia, to look at Etruscan tombs. The Etruscans were an ancient civilization that died out around the 6th Century B.C., about the same time the Romans came to power. Like the Egyptians, they tried to set up their burial sites with everything the deceased would need in the afterlife, so their artwork is valuable to modern historians. According to Roman historical legend, the Etruscans ruled Rome for a period ending in 510/509 B.C., so Etruscan civilization and culture had a strong influence on Rome in its formative years.

Let's have a look inside this Etruscan tomb!

 I was glad to see that the Italian government is now taking steps to protect the precious frescoes in Tarquinia. In the late 80s I could stand inside the tombs and look at the frescoes up close, even though the guides admitted the presence of visitors was bad for the paintings. Now the most important tombs have little buildings over them to protect them from rain and moisture seeping through. Inside the tombs is a plexiglass door so visitors can see the frescoes and take pictures of them—with no flash. Glad as I was to see them protected, I missed the experience of seeing them up close and personal. I have fond memories and am glad I could do that in my lifetime.

Some Etruscan Tombs in Tarquinia Contain Frescoes

While I was there I bought two more reproductions for my classroom: a terracotta oil lamp with Cupid on it and a bucchero vase with some figures incised on it. Bucchero was a type of black Etuscan pottery that was fired very hot. It has a shiny look so that you can almost mistake it for metal. The effect is deliberate: those who could not afford metal used pottery that looked like metal. I got a good buy: both small pieces for 17 Euros. The woman who sold them to me told me in Italian that she had some background in the Classics. I could understand some of what she was saying in Italian. We both agreed that Greek is difficult. She seemed to have a real respect for Etruscan culture and products and not just be at her stand to make a buck (although I'm sure that doesn't hurt). For more pictures from this trip, visit this set on Flickr.

 Don called tonight with the news that a very good friend of mine and her husband just split up. It was a complete shock to me. I had no idea it was coming. How sad! When I get back I'll have to get in touch with her. I was glad to have a chance to tell Don how much I miss him. It sounds like he is conscientiously working his tail off taking care of the dogs, our properties, and my bills while I'm gone. I owe him big time.

The National Endowment for the Humanities has earned my public appreciation for providing funding for this portion of my summer travels.

Oplontis

Tuesday 7/13/10

View of Oplontis

 Sr. Therese and Sr. Theresa seem to realize they are running the participants ragged. Today we cut back on activities. We spent the morning in Oplontis visiting the villa there, perhaps the villa of Poppaea Sabina, the second wife of the Emperor Nero, or of one of her relatives. It is an example, like Pompeii's Villa of the Mysteries, of a Villa Suburbana. Not a working farmhouse, but a showcase of luxury, located outside of town. This villa was convenient to Pompeii, about 3 Roman miles outside of the more famous town. Its remains are luxurious enough that one could imagine a member of the imperial family owning it. Different parts of the house are decorated with frescoes in different styles, and the slaves' section is decorated with humble black and white stripes. It is easy to tell where the servants and where their masters were expected to hang out. The piscina or swimming pool is huge.  

Famous Frescoes

Slaves' Quarters

The Piscina or Swimming Pool

We have a translation session tonight. We will stay here for more sessions and lectures tomorrow. Thursday we head to the island of Ischia, where we will visit the Greek remains of the settlement beneath the church of St. Restituta. Ischia has nice hot springs and gardens, so we plan to bring our bathing suits for our free time there in the afternoon.

 On a personal note, I managed to get through all of my PT exercises today without any painkillers. It hurt, but I could do them, and got some good bend in the knee. My ankles are still swollen. It seems impossible to avoid salt and sugar in the diet around here; perhaps Rome will be better. I still have a rash on my legs, but it looks better than the rashes on the legs of the other women who mysteriously developed a skin condition around the same time I did. I honestly suspect the improvement is from the aqua s. ferrata I've been applying from the spring at Terme di Stabia. I may decide to go back and get more. I need a haircut and still can't figure out how to get one.

 I also have decided I want to order a pamphlet on graffiti from the American Classical League Teaching Materials and Resource Center to use with my students. Also, if I assign students to research houses, they may want to do it after their favorite television show home-show, like “Cribs”  or “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous”. Myths and graffiti could be tied in with the houses as well as architecture and figures from Roman history.

My eternal thanks go to the National Endowment for the Humanities for funding this portion of our trip.